The North face of Mount Everest is the steep northern side of the world’s tallest mountain. It rises from the Tibetan Plateau in China's Tibet Autonomous Region. It is noted for its remote side, technical climbing route and its place in mountaineering history.
The Everest north base camp, also known as Rongbuk Base Camp, is around 5250 meters and is the departure point into Everest from the north - either for various reasons. North routes from the Everest north base camp go through the Rongbuk Glacier, out to the North Col and typically follow a route along the Northeast Ridge.
Climbers who take the north route follow the Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col, and continue to climb the Northeast Ridge. There are difficult sections of the journey including the Three Steps, Hornbein Couloir, and the Norton Couloir. Harsh winds, cold temperatures, and exposed terrain make the Everest north face a demanding climb.
Tibetan expeditions on Everest frequently have less congestion and cheaper permits than the south side in Nepal. It is also easier to travel to and acclimatize in north base camp with road access. However, there is less rescue support and the terrain is more technically difficult.
So what makes the north side of Everest so different from the south? To help answer that question, we wrote this blog to outline the route, climbing process, permits, and what climbers may experience on the north side.
Mount Everest north face view from Tibetan side with rocky valley and scattered equipment in foreground
The North Face of Mount Everest: Overview of the Tibet Side
The North Face of Mount Everest provides a more remote and technical route to the summit. The route is in Tibet, China. The climbing begins at Rongbuk Base Camp (about 5150 meters) which is reached by road. This makes some logistical issues easier than Nepal.
Climbers will follow the Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col, then climb the Northeast Ridge, navigating exposed areas such as the Three Steps, Hornbein Couloir, and the Norton Couloir. These areas require solid technical climbing ability and experience at high altitude. The weather on the north side is significantly colder and windier than on the south side.
Although Everest expeditions from Tibet often experience fewer crowds and lower permit fees, they also have limited rescue options and stronger regulations. The north side is still a serious ascent and is often selected by climbers seeking a more technical and remotely quiet route.
The South Face of Mount Everest: Nepal Side Comparison
The South Face of Everest is the most popular route to Everest Base Camp. The journey starts with a flight to Lukla and then hiking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp, which sits at 5364 metres.
The route involves the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, the Lhotse Face, and the South Col, before summiting. Although there are physically demanding routes on both sides, the south is less technical than the north. However, climbers do consider the Khumbu Icefall as some of the most dangerous terrain they face because of the moving ice and crevasses.
The south side of Everest is the more developed option. There are helicopter evacuations, medical posts on site and experienced teams and support. The downside is that the permit fees are higher and the paths to Everest climb are busy during the main climbing season.
Because the south side has more established support and infrastructure, climbers typically choose that route, especially if it’s their first time on the mountain. Regardless of the route you choose, it really depends on your overall objectives, climber skills, and level of support you want on your expedition up the mountain.
Woman posing next to Mt. Qomolangma Base Camp sign decorated with colorful Tibetan prayer flags
How to Reach Everest North Base Camp in Tibet
To visit the Everest North Base Camp in Tibet, the journey begins with a flight to mainland China. Most people will most likely fly into one of China’s major cities, Beijing, Chengdu or Xian, and from one of those cities, you would need to fly or take a train to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet Autonomous Region.
From there, you will travel by road to base camp. It takes about four days to reach the base camp at Rongbuk (about 5150 meters). The drive includes a few major towns, including Shigatse, Lhatse and Shegar with overnight stops along the way. The drive travels through some high mountain passes and you will be gaining altitude each day in a gradual way that helps acclimatize you while you are travelling to base camp.
As you travel from Shegar to Rongbuk monastery, and then to the base camp area, the road can be a little rough in spots but is fully drivable on a general basis during the trekkers and climbers season.
Weather and Climate Conditions on the North Side of Everest
The north side of Everest in Tibet has a colder, drier climate than the south side and is subject to windier conditions. Temperature at Everest North Base Camp can drop below freezing, during spring and autumn. Once you ascend from Base Camp, the conditions will continue to be increasingly extreme; temperatures drop quickly below -20° C and wind speeds increase tremendously.
The best time to climb from the north is between late April and June, when the weather tends to be more stable. After June, the monsoon impacts the south more than the north, however the winds on the north face will still introduce challenges.
Winter will be extremely cold and unsuitable for climbing. Autumn (September - October) may have sporadic clear weather windows but conditions are less predictable than in spring.
Key Landmarks on the North Face Route of Everest
Landmark
Altitude
Description
Rongbuk Base Camp
5150m
Road-accessible starting point in Tibet
Advabced Base Camp
6400m
Main acclimatization and preperation camp
North Col
7000m
Steep ice section leading to Northeast Ridge
Camp II
7500m
Mid-route staging area
Camp III
8300m
Final camp before summit push
The Three Steps
8500-8750m
Technical rock sections on the Northeast Ridge
Summit
8848.86m
Top of Everest
Technical Challenges and Climbing Risks on the North Face
The climbing route to Everest from Tibet is more technical and tougher than climbing from the south side in Nepal. The north side goes up the Northeast Ridge, with significant high-altitude exposed sections needing to be climbed.
Mount Everest peak with snow-covered summit emerging through dramatic clouds
Steep and Technical Sections
The north route ascends through the final three Steps, the Second Step being the most difficult. Climbers are advised to use fixed ropes and metal ladders to ascend through steep rock formations, particularly above 8500m.
Harsh Weather Conditions
Climbing on the north side will likely be colder and windier. Sudden weather changes, including high-speed storms and wind gusts can occur at any time, increasing your risk of danger and delay on your summit bid.
High Altitude Dangers
Much of the route, is above 8000m, or the "death zone." You will be vulnerable to lack of oxygen, fatigue, and potential altitude sickness. For this reason, many Everest expeditions from Tibet, use supplemental bottled oxygen reducing inherent dangers.
Limited Evacuation Options
Climbing on the north route does not have helicopter evacuation options (as the south route allows for), thus, in emergency must be evacuated by land, which takes longer and increases risk.
Climbing Permits and Costs for Mount Everest via Tibet
Climbing Mt Everest from the north side in Tibet requires a number of official permits, issued by Chinese authorities, that are necessary before entering the region and starting your climb. You will also need to follow their regulations because independent climbing is not allowed and you will have to make use of the official process for climbing.
The mountaineering permit is the most important permit for climbing. A climbing permit will be issued from the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA). In addition to this permit you will need a visa (to enter China), a Tibet Travel Permit to enter the Tibet Autonomous Region, and an Aliens' Travel Permit to gain access to restricted areas like Everest North Base Camp.
The climbing permit cost usually ranges from US$25,000 to US$40,000 dollars. The climbing permit is only a climbing permit. It does not include any other costs, like transport and accommodation, meals, climbing gear or support staff.
Permit costs are usually lower in Tibet than on the Nepal side. The rules on the north side are stricter and you must prepare for all process in advance. You cannot get these permits after you are in Tibet. Proper planning is necessary before the climb.
History of North Face Ascents on Mount Everest
The first side of Mount Everest to be explored by climbers was the North Face of Everest located in Tibet. Until 1950, Nepal was closed to foreigners and consequently all early attempts were from the north of Everest.
1921: First Everest Exploration
A British expedition was the first to visit Everest from the north side. They studied the mountain and looked for routes, but they did not hope to summit.
1922 : The First Real Climb
Another British team returned and attempted the summit. They climbed to 8320m which was a world record for altitude at the time. Sadly, several climbers were killed in an avalanche.
1924: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine
Two climbers, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, made a famous attempt to summit Everest. They were seen last near the summit but never returned. Mallory's body was found in 1999 but no one will ever know if they reached the top.
Cyclist riding across barren high-altitude plateau with snow-capped mountains in background
1960: The First Successful North Face Ascent
A Chinese team (Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu, and Qu Yinhua) summited from the north side. At the time, there were critics who doubted the climb because there were no photos of the summit. Later it was widely accepted as the first confirmed ascent from the north side of the mountain.
1980: First Solo Ascent from North Side
The climber Reinhold Messner completed the first solo ascent of Everest without oxygen, climbing from the north side, which became one of the most iconic climbs in Everest history.
1990s Onward: More Expeditions
With China opening the area and building roads to the base camp, more climbers began using the Mount Everest north route. It became a popular route, particularly by experienced teams.
Can Trekkers Visit the North Face of Everest Base Camp Without Trekking?
Yes, trekkers can access the in Tibet without trekking. On the Tibetan side, the North Base Camp (Rongbuk Base Camp) is accessible via road. From Lhasa, a visitor could travel by vehicle through towns such as Shigatse and Shegar to reach the base camp.
However, a foreign traveler must also have a Chinese visa, a Tibet Travel Permit, and an Aliens' Travel Permit to visit any of these Tibet sites. These permits must be organized ahead of time, and travel to the sites can only be done with an approved itinerary.
This makes the north side easier for someone who wants to see Everest up close without having to do a multi-day trek.
FAQs
Is the North Face of Everest open to foreign climbers in 2025?
Yes, the North Face is generally open to international climbers in 2025. However, access is subject to the rules of the Chinese government, which may change. It is recommended to check travel restrictions and permit availability before you plan your trip.
Why do fewer climbers attempt Everest from the North Side?
The reason that fewer climbers attempt Everest from the North side is that the conditions on that side are generally colder and windier. The route on the north side is considered more technical and climbers will have to navigate more difficult rock and ice. The rescue situations are generally more limited and the climb will require more experience and skill in mountaineering.
Do I need to join a group to climb Everest from the Tibet side?
Yes, foreign climbers must climb from Tibet as part of an organized expedition. Independent climbing in Tibet is not allowed, and permit applications are only permitted as groups that have received approval from the Chinese authorities.
How cold does it get on Everest’s North Face during summit season?
During the main climbing seasons, and especially in the spring months, temperatures are likely to be at or close to minus 20 degrees Celsius or lower near the summit. Added wind chill can even amplify the cold, and frostbite risk becomes real.
Are helicopters allowed on the North Face of Everest?
No, helicopters cannot be used for rescues or transporting people on the north side because of high altitude and Chinese rules. Rescue operations depend on ground teams, which can be more dangerous for emergencies.
What are the visa and travel restrictions for entering Tibet?
To enter Tibet and visit the Everest North Base Camp, travelers must have a valid Chinese visa, a Tibet Travel Permit, and an Aliens' Travel Permit. The Tibet Travel Permit and Aliens’ Travel Permit must be arranged ahead of time, and travelers must follow the approved travel routes.
How long does it take to climb Everest from the North Side?
Climbing from the north side typically takes around 6-8 weeks depending upon travel to Tibet, acclimatization, establishing camps, and waiting for suitable weather windows to safely attempt the summit.
Can I trek to North Everest Base Camp independently?
No, foreign trekkers cannot visit the north base camp unaccompanied. You must travel as part of an approved group or with an approved guide and hold the appropriate permits to visit that area. Travel independently is forbidden by authorities in China.
Tibetan people with yak walking across high-altitude plain with distant snow-covered mountains
Conclusion
The North Face of Mount Everest is arguably the toughest and most technically advanced route across Everest. It is a route that is quieter with fewer people but because of this is colder, has tougher terrain and has limited options for rescues and evacuation. To undertake a climb from the North requires several permits to be obtained before climbing, and an organized commercial expedition must be joined as independent travelers are not allowed.
As the Mount Everest North route has its advantages, the majority of trekkers and climbers choose to visit the South Everest Base Camp route in Nepal as it has greater infrastructure, easier access, and better services and support. The South Face experience is one of stunning landscapes, the liveliness of Sherpa culture, and helicopter evacuation if required.
If trekking to South Everest Base Camp or other popular trekking and climbing packages in Nepal is something that you are ready for, we are happy to assist you in planning your experience. Please contact us at Himalayan Recreation for complete details, personalized itineraries, and expert support to make your trek safe and memorable.
