The 1996 Mount Everest disaster is considered one of the most horrifying events in mountaineering history. Climbers making an attempt to summit Everest in May of 1996 faced an intense and severe blizzard, the Everest blizzard of 1996. This sudden and unexpected storm caught multiple expedition teams by surprise, which led to chaos and pandemonium high on the mountain. The blizzard claimed the lives of eight climbers who lost their lives in a matter of days, making this one of the deadliest disasters on Everest.
Two of the most prominent characters were both experienced guides - Rob Hall and Scott Fischer Everest 1996 - who were both leading individuals to the summit when the storm hit. Both Hall and Fischer ultimately died while trying to save other people. Afterward, the disaster and the story of the people involved were depicted in the best-selling book Into Thin Air Everest, which drew global attention to the risks and challenges of climbing the world’s tallest mountain.
Scott Fischer memorial cairn with prayer flags at Everest region, commemorating 1996 Mount Everest disaster
The 1996 Mount Everest disaster highlighted many aspects of climbing, including overcrowding, reliability on weather forecasting, and making difficult decisions in harsh conditions. It is a harsh reminder of the risks climbers take, and the incident is amongst the most studied disasters on Mount Everest.
In this blog post, you will find a comprehensive timeline of later events, key individuals involved, and an analysis of what the cause of the disaster was and its ongoing contribution to climbing safety and culture.
The History of Mount Everest Climbing in the Early 1990s
In the history of climbing Mount Everest, the early 1990s saw a big growth in Everest commercial expeditions around 1996. Guiding companies started to help more of the masses, aided by professional help, which led to many climbers, sometimes with minimal experience, heading to Everest. This leverage increased the difficulty and risk of climbing it.
In 1996, commercial climbing changed forever. On May 10, 1996, several commercial teams including Rob Hall, and Scott Fischer, attempted summiting on that same day. In their descent, they encountered a sudden and severe storm. This day is remembered as the Everest summit day disaster of May 1996. Because of the storm many were exhausted and suffering from lack of oxygen and cold and eventually died.
The causes and legacy of the 1996 Everest tragedy involved several factors, including overcrowding as many commercial expeditions sought to summit at the same time; not observing safe turnaround times; bad weather that was unexpected; and poor decisions due to the effects of high altitude. The disaster resulted in eight fatalities in a single day and became one of the deadliest days in Everest history.
It shed light on the dangers of commercial climbing; and the pressure put on guides to push their clients to the summit, even in dangerous conditions. Because of the experience, climbing safety regulations were updated, and there was a fundamental shift in how the approach for conducting commercial expeditions began to be reconsidered. The tragedy had a significant influence on the future scope of how climbers and guides conduct themselves while on Everest.
Details About the Expedition Teams and Their Leaders in 1996
The Mount Everest expedition in 1996 consisted of several vital teams, chiefly two large commercial guiding companies.
Adventure Consultants was directed by Rob Hall, a New Zealand native and experienced guide who prioritized client safety. Adventure Consultants had a total of eight clients, and four guides, including Michael Groom and Andy Harris. The most noticeable clients were Doug Hansen, Yasuko Namba, and Jon Krakauer (a journalist who later published a book about the event). Rob Hall died just below the South Summit on the way down.
Mount Everest summit ridge with long queue of climbers in colorful mountaineering gear approaching the peak
Another major team was Mountain Madness, Scott Fischer's American climbing company, which took an aggressive approach. They, too, had eight clients, and had guides like Neal Beidleman, and Anatoli Boukreev. Some clients were Martin Adams, Charlotte Fox, and Sandy Pittman. Scott Fischer died during the storm on the way down.
Other smaller parties were on the mountain, including the Indian expedition and a Taiwanese expedition. These other small parties had experienced Sherpas supporting them, for instance, Lopsang Jangbu and Ngawang Dorje.
Both main teams were going for the summit on May 10, 1996, this contributed to the crowding and delays. When the extreme storm hit during their descent many climbers were in a position of exhaustion, playing, and cold at the time. This contributed to death, including death of both team leaders.
A Day by Day Account of the Events Leading to the Disaster
May 9, 1996
Climbers from the major commercial teams Adventure Consultants led by Rob Hall and Mountain Madness led by Scott Fischer, were at Camp IV on the South Col preparing for the final push to the summit. The weather was clear, climbers were resting, and organizing the oxygen and equipment for the following day.
May 10, 1996 - Summit Day
Around midnight, climbers started to climb from Camp IV toward the summit.
There was a serious bottleneck near the summit at the Hillary Step, where climbers were delayed due to the number of climbers, as well as delayed fixed ropes. This bottleneck resulted in enormous delays and wasted oxygen and energy for all of the climbers.
The turnaround time was 2:00 PM, meaning the climbers were going to start to descend no matter what if they did not reach the summit. Many climbers ignored this and reached the summit late, as late as 4:00 PM.
By late afternoon, a powerful and unexpected storm, with high winds and heavy snowfall, hit the mountain, drastically reducing visibility and adding to the already dangerous conditions for climbers at extreme altitudes (the “Death Zone” being the area of the mountain over 8,000 meters).
Climbers trapped in the storm exhausted their oxygen bottles, and many experienced hypoxia, cold injuries, compromised cognition, and poor decision-making. Team leaders Rob Hall and Scott Fischer became trapped in the storm on the way down the mountain. Rescue attempts by their colleagues were difficult due to the rapidly deteriorating weather, and the altitude.
Night of May 10 – Early May 11
The storm continued through the night. Some climbers sought to make their way back to Camp IV but became lost or incapacitated due to exhaustion and hypothermia.
Anatoli Boukreev, guide for Mountain Madness, was able to attempt solo rescue efforts during the storm, but was constrained by unsafe and inhospitable weather conditions. He was able to rescue some climbers, but many others were found dead or missing as the storm subsided.
Tragically, a total of eight climbers died in the storm caused by exhaustion, oxygen depletion, and extreme cold.
May 11, 1996 - Aftermath
With dawn, the scale of the tragedy became evident. Numerous climbers were either missing or dead. Survivors and rescuers congregated around the camps.
The tragedy grabbed global attention towards the dangers of congestion, commercialization, the lack of adherence to safety protocols, and the unpredictability of weather on Everest.
Profiles of the Climbers Who Lost Their Lives in the Disaster
Most of the climbers who died in the 1996 Mount Everest disaster were part of the major commercial teams or from a government of India expedition group.
Rob Hall from New Zealand lead the Adventure Consultants team. Hall passed away close to the South Summit after remaining with one of his clients, Doug Hansen during the blizzard. Hansen, from the United States, made it to the summit of Everest late in the day and died close to the South Summit.
Andy Harris, a guide with the Adventure Consultants team, probably died from a fall while attempting to descend from the summit.
Yasuko Namba from Japan was also the second Japanese woman to summit Everest, and she died due to exposure near the South Col.
Scott Fischer, who was the leader of the Mountain Madness team, died due to exhaustion and exposure on the Southeast Ridge.
Three Indian climbers part of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police also died; they were Tsewang Smanla, Dorje Morup and Tsewang Paljor. Tsewang Paljor is known as "Green Boots" because his body remained on the mountain for many years.
Most of the climbers died from severe cold exposure, exhaustion, the inability to breathe oxygen for too long, and delays created by the crowding and bad weather. The disaster shed light on the dangers of high-altitude climbing with the immense pressure exerted by commercial expeditions.
Stories of Survival and Close Calls from the 1996 Everest Tragedy
The 1996 Everest disaster featured a number of compelling stories of survival and near survival during the storm that struck many climbers returning from the summit.
Perhaps the most famous survivor is Beck Weathers. Beck was forced to leave the mountain at one point with severe frostbite and unconsciousness (he was left for dead). Several hours later, he woke up, stood up, and in what may have been an impossible act, walked alone back to Camp IV. Unfortunately, Beck's survival came at a price. He lost his nose, right hand, ale of is right forearm, and fingers on his left hand.
Beck Weathers receiving medical care after surviving 1996 Mount Everest disaster, showing frostbite injuries from the deadly storm
Anatoli Boukreev, who was the guide for the Mountain Madness team, made multiple solo rescues in extreme winds and cold, bringing climbers like Sandy Pittman, Charlotte Fox, and Tim Madsen back to safety. He also was not able to save everyone - there were climbers too weak to move - but he is credited with preventing others from dying.
Neal Beidleman, another Mountain Madness guide, physically helped and led several exhausted climbers down the mountain from his own and Adventure Consultants teams, and his ability to endure led to survival for many of those confused by the chaos. Others who turned around earlier such as Stuart Hutchison searched for the stranded climbers, and Hutchison found Beck Weathers and Yasuko Namba barely alive. Since altitude, storm, and matter of resources, not all could be brought down.
These survival stories reveal the inherent danger of horrible weather, exhaustion, hypoxia, and disorientation on Everest, but also the compassion and resolve that usually is associated with the 1996 Mount Everest Disaster.
The Main Causes and Mistakes That Contributed to the Disaster
The primary causes and errors that contributed to the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy can be summarized as follows
Ignoring Turnaround Time: Climbers were expected to begin descending by 2:00 PM to avoid the late-afternoon storms and exhaustion. However, some climbers summited around 4:00 PM which only compounded their fate in a storm while exhausted.
Bottlenecks & Time Losses: The Hillary Step, which poses climbing challenges and obstacles on a narrow ascent just below the summit, became a bottleneck with so many summit attempts occurring on that day and delays of climbing teams fixing ropes. These delays caused the teams losing significant amounts of time, energy, and oxygen.
Poor Weather Reports & Accounts: Late in the afternoon, a fierce storm struck the mountain that can be described as unheralded arrival of severe winds and accumulating snowfall disallowing visibility near zero. Weather warnings had either not been heeded or not sufficiently acted upon, and the mountain teams had become completely unprepared for this storm and fierce blizzard.
Improper Decision-Making Due to Altitude: The air at 8,000 meters (the "death zone") is very thin, limiting climbers’ judgment ability and cognitive functioning. Climbers made bad decisions and were slow to respond to stress in extreme conditions.
Inexperience and Commitment: Many clients had limited climbing experience. However, pursuits of summit still blinded guides’ decisions - in some cases, clients were already exhausted, and the guide still felt pressured to deliver and was conflicted with a sense of commitment.
Leadership/Competition: The competitive nature between expedition leaders Rob Hall and Scott Fischer also contributed to their desire to continue moving forward under worsening conditions and gave leaders the false sense they were making good decisions despite worsening weather that stopped other expeditions. The leaders also underestimated the consequences of the changing weather and delayed decisions to turn back.
Insufficient Equipment and Oxygen: Some climbers ran out of supplementary (regulated) oxygen, which contributed to both being further delayed, hypoxia, and exhaustion.
How the 1996 Disaster Changed Safety Rules and Climbing Practices?
The 1996 Everest disaster spurred some important changes in the safety rules and climbing practices affecting climbing on the mountain. After the incident, guiding companies and authorities began to focus more on climber safety, for everyone on the mountain, instead of only focusing on having everyone reach the summit.
Planning around weather forecasts was one of those changes. Teams became much more aware of weather reports and tried to not start summit attempts during dangerous forecasts.
Guides became aware that they had to be stricter about turnaround times; climbers had to start the descent at a particular time, regardless of whether they reached the summit or not. This rule was important to prevent climbers who were unable to return from getting trapped on the mountain and descending after dark, or during storms - when it was dangerous.
The event highlighted the overcrowding problems also. The government made or attempted to make the number of climbers on route to the summit less, to limit the number of climbers and to limit time climbing.
View from inside yellow tent at high altitude Everest camp showing snow-covered Himalayan peaks and clouds
Finally, there was improved communication between groups, guides and base camp. This allowed for coordinated rescues much more quickly, provided useful information quickly, while on the mountain.
Books Films and Documentaries That Were Inspired by the 1996 Disaster
There were many notable books that were published last decade about the Everest disaster of 1996. The most well-known is Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air, which offers a first-hand, detailed account of the tragedy. A second important book is The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt, which outlines a different point of view on the events. Another survivor, Beck Weathers, published a book of his own called, Left for Dead, which tells his experience.
The disaster also inspired movies. The 2015 film Everest, is a dramatization of the events of the 1996 tragedy, representing, with 20-year hindsight, the challenges faced by the climbers as they attempted to summit Everest. Another dramatic representation is the 1997 TV movie called Into Thin Air: Death on Everest, which very closely mimicked many elements of Krakauer's novel.
There are numerous documentaries that explore the Everest disaster in detail. Storm Over Everest (2008) examines the particular storm in depth, which resulted in the deaths on Everest. The Summit (2012) covers multiple Everest disasters, including the 1996 tragedy. Some other documentaries, often called Everest: The Death Zone, focus and provide detail about climbing risk, including footage of the disastrous 1996 events.
Read more articles and guides by Himlayan Recreation
What caused the sudden storm during the 1996 Everest disaster?
The blizzard was a fast-moving storm characterized by high winds and heavy snowfall. It came out of nowhere on summit day, catching many climbers off-guard and generating life-threatening conditions.
How did the weather forecasts fail before the 1996 tragedy?
Forecast data used at the time were not able to comprehend the severity and the timing of the storm. Climbers and guides were not properly warned to adequately prepare for incoming weather that would escalate rapidly.
What safety equipment were climbers using in 1996 compared to now?
In 1996, climbers employed supplemental oxygen tanks, radios, and a standard array of cold weather gear. There has been increased improvements to climbing equipment to encompass a more conventional oxygen system, GPS devices, basic weather monitoring, and improved clothing for protection against frigid temperatures.
How has commercial climbing on Everest changed since 1996?
Following the disaster, a more stringent stance on safety and prevention was adopted. All commercial expeditions now have stricter regulations covering weather, implement climber turnaround times, limits for participant amount, and well-trained guides.
What role did Sherpas play in the 1996 Everest disaster?
The Sherpas played an important role in involving clients and continuing to support their workloads, transporting loads, setting ropes, and assisting in rescuing climbers. Sherpas continued to help many climbers attempt to descend from the storm, with some putting their own lives on the line to assist stranded climbers to safety.
Were there any successful rescue attempts during the 1996 storm?
Absolutely. On solo rescue missions, guides like Anatoli Boukreev went out alone, even in some of the worst weather. He helped many climbers down safely, which must have taken an incredible amount of courage and fortitude.
How did the 1996 disaster affect future Everest permits and regulations?
Everest expedition authorities implemented limits on the number of climbers allowed per season and implemented stricter safety measures in effort to diminish overcrowding and to enhance the overall safety of the expedition.
What is the “Green Boots” landmark and why is it important?
“Green Boots” refers to the body of Tsewang Paljor, who died during disaster of 1996. His green boots established a permanent landmark on the Northeast Ridge route, and represented a harsh reality of the dangers of climbing Everest.
Everest Base Camp aerial view showing yellow expedition tents scattered across rocky terrain with Himalayan peaks backdrop
Conclusion
The 1996 Everest disaster is one of the most catastrophic events in this mountain's history. It highlighted the hazards of crowding, bad weather, and not using common sense regarding safety protocols, such as turnaround times. The 1996 Everest blizzard tragically cost eight denizens of the mountain their lives, including climbers Rob Hall and Scott Fischer.
Following the disaster, safety became our number one priority. Teams made improvements to their weather planning, enforced turnaround times, limited the number of climbers on the mountain, and made communication better. The events also prompted the creation of numerous accounts like the book Into Thin Air, films like Everest, and documentaries that highlight the serious issues related to high-altitude climbing.
The 1996 disaster is a reminder to heed nature and safety protocols when climbing high altitude ascents. If you intend to enjoy the Everest region safely, please contact Himalayan Recreation for advice and assistance as well as organising most demanding Mount Everest Base Camp Trek!
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