Numerous climbers have successfully scaled Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, and many have met their demise as well. Francys Arsentiev, also known as the Sleeping Beauty Mount Everest, died one of the more tragic deaths on Mount Everest. Francys made an attempt to ascend Mount Everest in 1998 in an attempt to become the first American woman to reach the summit without the use of oxygen. She did in fact make it to the top, but tragically, she did not make it back down.
Until she went missing, Sleeping Beauty was a skilled climber but her last trip was a meltdown of delays and fatigue and oxygen deprivation.During the descent, she and her spouse, Sergei Arsentiev, became separated. Both Francys who were seen distressed in the snow while Sergei tried in vain to make his way back to her, ultimately perishing were both lost on the mountain. Francys’s body, by then frozen in her climbing gear, was later spotted by other climbers, and remained in view close to the main route for years and became known as the “Sleeping Beauty Everest body.”
Mountaineer with rope climbing through blue ice crevasse in Khumbu Icefall on Everest climbing route
What unfolded in the final hours? Would the fate have been different, had there been a rescue, or victims of other climbers able to assist? Shortly after Francys Arsentiev death, an intense discussion about climbing ethics, attempts, considerations, and the role of rescues in high-altitude climbing began.
In this blog post we will cover everything you need to know about Francys Arsentiev Everest story and its effect on the climbing community, as well as the harsh realities of the Everest expeditions, and her story will help us to understand the significance of preparation, decision making, and the implications of pushing boundaries at extreme altitudes.
Who was Sleeping Beauty on Everest?
Sleeping Beauty on Everest references Francys Arsentiev, an American mountaineer who died during her descent from Mount Everest in 1998making a tragic case featured in Mount Everest dead bodies stories. She was the first American woman to reach the summit without supplemental oxygen, but she got into trouble during her descent from the summit and was unable to make it back down. As she descended, she fainted below the summit due to great exhaustion and oxygen deprivation. To the climbers, she looked peaceful and where she lay on the line of the trail looked like she was sleeping. Thus, getting her nickname as the Sleeping Beauty on Everest.
Why Francys Arsentiev is Called the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest?
Francys Arsentiev's sorrowful appearance on the Everest slopes earned her the nickname "Sleeping Beauty."An Everest climber, she attempted to reach the summit in 1998 without supplemental oxygen while suffering from extreme exhaustion on her descent. Because of the extreme altitude and her fatigue, Francys collapsed near the trail and lost consciousness. Other climbers walked past her and saw that she was peaceful and jointless, almost sleeping, and their tribute to her led to public identity as Sleeping Beauty.
The story of Francys Arsentiev and Sergei Arsentiev highlights one of the more notable deaths on Everest, especially because the couple died together during their descent. Francys’s motionless body remained visible for years, drawing the climbing community’s attention, respect, goodwill, and sympathy.
Deceased climber in Everest death zone above 8000 meters showing extreme high altitude mountaineering dangers
Timeline of Francys Arsentiev Final Mount Everest Expedition
Early May 1998: Proficient climbers Francys and Sergei Arsentiev were on their way to undertake an expedition on Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Before this ambitious climb, they reached some of the world's most significant peaks including Denali in Alaska (6190m / 20310ft) and Pik Lenin in Central Asia (7134m / 23406 ft). The Everest ascent is a very demanding undertaking that requires high levels of fitness and proper acclimatization to the altitude.
May 21, 1998: After days of climbing through the high-altitude Everest Base Camp trek route, they begin their final summit push from the South Col, the last camp before the summit.
May 22, 1998: Francys Arsentiev summits Mount Everest and becomes the first American woman to summit the mountain without supplemental oxygen. In addition to being a huge accomplishment, it increases the danger of ascending without oxygen support.
May 22-23, 1998: During the descent, Francys begins to experience significant exhaustion and altitude sickness, two dangerous potentialities found in the Everest death zone above 8,000 meters. Francys and Sergei lose to each other due to deteriorating conditions.
May 23, 1998: Francys collapses near the South Summit just below the summit of Everest. The lack of oxygen and fatigue created an extreme drop in her physical condition.
Several climbers would hike past her during the next few hours. None of them would be able to do anything as she was at such an unapproachable altitude and they had scarce supplies for a rescue. She looked calm and motionless, and the climbers gave her the name "Sleeping Beauty of Everest."
Sergei Arsentiev would try to rescue his wife Francys and would further demonstrate the bond and commitment of the couple, but again gave up to the elements around him and eventually died nearby.
After 1998: Francys Arsentiev is left on the mountain as her body would remain visible on the slopes of Everest to climbing community for years, and Francys's story became one of the most well-known stories of tragic death on Mount Everest while emphasizing the risk of high-altitude mountaineering and dangers of the climbing route on Everest.
As the years pass, the climbing community still honors Francys and Sergei Arsentiev for their bravery and the sacrifices they made to follow their dreams.
What Went Wrong During the Descent from Mount Everest
The tragedy of the Everest climber Sleeping Beauty occurred due to multiple factors concerning her descent. Once she had reached the summit Francys Arsentiev was in extreme fatigue and severe altitude sickness. The lack of supplemental oxygen, limited her breathing and kept her mind dull and slow. Because of this she couldn't manage to find safety, instead she was weak and disoriented.
In the end, Francys collapsed and could not resume her trail after she got 35 metres from the summit. While several climbers did attempt to reach her, the altitude and conditions made it impossible for any form of rescue. Francy’s immobile body, which became known as the Sleeping Beauty Everest body, remained on the mountain for years to come reminding climbers of the danger of climbing the death zone.
Night mountaineering expedition with headlamps ascending snowy slopes between Everest camps
Sergei Arsentiev Effort to Rescue His Wife on Everest
In May 1998, Francys and Sergei Arsentiev accomplished the successful summit of Mount Everest. However, at some point in their descent, they became separated due to exhaustion and increasing weather conditions. After seeing Francys had collapsed and was unable to move any farther, Sergei made the brave decision to remain behind in the hopes of carrying her back down the mountain.
Severely weakened and deprived of oxygen in the death zone of Everest, Sergei attempted to descend with Francys in order to save her life. Unfortunately, the brutal environmental conditions and physical exhaustion overwhelmed Sergei as well. Ultimately, he also became severely weakened and was unable to continue his descent. Tragically, both Francys Arsentiev and Sergei Arsentiev lost their lives while attempting to rescue Francys on Mount Everest.
Discovery of Francy’s Arsentiev Body on Mount Everest
The first people to find the body of Francys Arsentiev were climbers who entered the Everest death zone not long after she tragically passed on the mountain in 1998. Due to the altitude and conditions that existed, there was never any attempt to recover her body at that time. Since then, her body had been noticeable on the mountain and became a well-known landmark referred to as the "Sleeping Beauty" for how peaceful she looked.
In 2007, there was a team of climbers led by Dave Hahn, an experienced man with years on Everest; who decided to make attempts to see if Francys could be moved. There was a move to relocate Francys's body to a less hazardous location and to see if it could be moved away from a horrifically dangerous position by the trail. The recovery process itself was difficult because of the extreme environment, but it was deemed worthwhile for the improvements in safety on the popular Everest Base Camp trekking areas.
Why Climbers Could Not Help Sleeping Beauty on Everest
Climbers who found Francys Arsentiev, known as Sleeping Beauty on Everest, faced substantial hurdles that kept them from providing any assistance. First, Francys was in the Everest death zone, above 8,000 meters, where there is very little oxygen in the atmosphere. Additionally, the body consumes oxygen much more quickly at this level and carrying out physical tasks becomes very difficult.
Most of the climbers were also exhausted and had limited raf of oxygen available to them. Efforts to help someone in distress at high altitude requires extra energy, time, and oxygen. All of these helped in very limited supply on Mount Everest. In addition, it was very steep and dangerous terrain around her resting spot, so rescuers could not stop safely anywhere around Francys and begin to carry her down.
Given these circumstances, climbers were unable to provide any effective aid to Francys. This illustrates the dangers of high-altitude climbing and also provides an explanation as to why we often cannot successfully rescue someone in this altitude.
Snow-covered mountain peak with climbing tents at high altitude camp in Everest region
Attempts to Cover or Move Sleeping Beauty Body and the Controversy
When Francys Arsentiev died on Mount Everest in 1998, her body was simply left where she fell on the mountain. Climbers could see her as they were passing by the sight, but no one at that time attempted to retrieve her body because of the extreme altitude and dangerous conditions. Francys's body soon became one of many bodies along the route in a section of Everest known as Rainbow Valley because several climber’s bodies remain in that section of the mountain due to the difficulty of retrieving them.
In 2007, a team put together by an experienced Everest guide named Dave Hahn, took the next step. They moved Francys's body from a precarious position near the path to a safer position that is less exposed to the elements. Their goal was to enhance the safety of other climbers and lessen the trauma of seeing her body.
Over the years, some Sherpas and climbers have been involved in the retrieval or temporary covering of bodies as part of their aims. These efforts are primarily to minimize hazards and make the experience of travelling through Rainbow Valley less traumatic for others who want to pass through this section of Everest.
The climbing community continues to have discussions on whether bodies like Francys's should be moved or left alone out of respect. There has been no real attempt at recovery, mainly because of liability, safety, environment, and cost. Most attempts are for safety not complete removal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Did Francys Arsentiev reach the summit of Mount Everest?
Yes, Francys Arsentiev successfully summited on May 22, 1998, and became the first American woman to summit Mt. Everest without supplemental oxygen.
How did Francys Arsentiev die on Mount Everest?
She perished during her descent after weakening and becoming disoriented due to altitude sickness, lack of oxygen, and exhaustion once in the death zone
What happened to Sergei Arsentiev?
Sergei went back up the mountain to try to find Francys after they became separated. He never returned and presumably perished in his attempt to rescue her.
Can climbers be rescued in the Everest death zone?
There is a very low chance of rescue above 8,000 meters. Helicopters can’t operate safely there, and even fellow climbers are unable to help each other because the conditions are extreme and life threatening.
What is Rainbow Valley on Everest?
Rainbow Valley is a section shortly before the summit that is scattered with brightly colored clothes and equipment of climbers who have perished, which will remain there since there is no viable opportunity for recovery due to the extreme danger of the conditions.
Is Francys Arsentiev's body still on Mount Everest?
No, her body was moved off the main climbing route in 2007 by a group of climbers to avoid distressing other climbers who may pass.
Why didn’t other climbers help Francys Arsentiev?
Many attempted to help, but at that extreme altitude you reach you physical limit and helping others can be fatal. Many climbers end-up having to make decisions that take into account survival.
How can I explore the Everest region safely?
Book a certified guide, take the time to acclimatize properly, be aware of weather, carry travel insurance, understand your limits, do not rush and do not push your limits at altitude.
Yak caravan carrying expedition supplies on stone trail with Everest-Lhotse wall backdrop
Conclusion
The story of Francys Arsentiev, referred to as the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest, is one of the most famous and tragic stories in the history of Everest. Francys' final climb in 1998 with her husband Sergei, represents the brutal realities and dangers of high-altitude mountaineering. Francys reached her goal of summiting without supplemental oxygen, but exhaustion and severe altitude sickness proved to be too much for her descent. Tragically, she lost her life, as did her husband Sergei while trying to save her.
Her body remained on Mount Everest for many years, and became a part of Rainbow Valley, where many climbers lie who have lost their lives. There were a few attempts to get her taken off to a more sacred location, but her tragic history remains a cautionary example in the risks of such treks.
Mount Everest is inspiring and unforgiving. Proper planning, decision making, and high-altitude awareness will keep you safe. If you are considering a trek to the Everest region and want to have professionals support you, please reach out to us at Himalayan Recreation. We have an experienced team who guarantees the best safety, support, and respect for the mountain's challenges.
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